“And how would you like your hot dog dressed?”
“In a hat please.”
For a second, I thought I’d blown it, that my whacky sense of humour had bombed and the assistant behind the food counter, dressed nattily in a bright red apron and matching red chef’s hat, had discounted me as an equally whacky mzungo weirdo.
But then it came. That glorious wide, Kenyan smile, brilliant flashing white teeth accompanied by a huge, warm belly laugh.
“You’re very funny!”
Encouraged, I went on to explain that in Australia the question regarding sauce is a little simpler.
“Ya want sauce on your dog luv?”
Getting him to repeat it the Aussie way triggered more hilarity, as he popped the still naked hot dog nestling in its bun into the microwave before dressing it in mustard and tomato sauce.
I was on the road from Nairobi to Amboseli National Park with Chris, my guide and driver for the next three days. I’d met him just two hours before at 6 am when he picked me up at the house, flustering him a little when he realised I was sitting up front with him.
“Normally everyone sits in the back,” he advised.
It was an 8-seater Landcruiser, for just me and him. I was a talker, had a million questions and up to five hours of road trip in front of us. It made no sense to sit behind.
“Hakuna matata Wendy!”
Yep, you heard that right. Hakuna matata, Swahili for “no worries” and popularised in the West by Pumba in the Lion King, is said a lot over here.
Fortunately, Chris was a talker too with a great sense of humour and we were barely out of Nairobi before we were exchanging life stories, philosophies and our vast cultural differences. A 62-year-old Aussie woman and a 44-year-old Kenyan man having lived incredibly different lives taking route 109 into the African wilderness.
WHAT I SAW OUT THE WINDOW
The first thing that struck me was how dusty and dry the landscape is. Admittedly, not so much a shock coming from Australia and familiar with the outback and drought-ravaged land, more a despair that rain hasn’t fallen in four consecutive seasons.
Flashes of rich, red, volcanic soil, laden with iron oxide reminded me of my birthplace Toowoomba, as did the splashes of vibrant green thriving on irrigated land owned by Indian or Chinese wealthy landowners.
It’s safe to say that what keeps the Kenyan rural community going during tough times is their faith. Of the 55 million, about 86 per cent of its people are Christian, followed by Muslims and followers of African Instituted Churches (AIC) led by Africans and varying regionally
There were churches everywhere, mostly Catholic and Evangelical, ranging from tiny tin sheds in the middle of seemingly nowhere to more modern structures dominating a village. With 4,000 churches registered throughout Kenya – countless others are not – there is certainly no shortage of places to pray, thanks to the missionaries who began their conversion in the late 16th century when the Portuguese arrived and settled.
Matching the plethora of churches were the onion stalls, often set up along the on side of the road, or lining the perimeter of a village, particularly in Emali, a town about 125 km south of Nairobi and a popular pitstop for trucks driving through to Mombassa. Almost every Kenyan dish boasts an onion or two, with Chris stopping to pick some up for his some for his Dad.
Another, rather amusing, observation was the process for preventing cars from using resurfaced roads. Clearly, signs didn’t work and rocks worked much better at keeping cars off freshly-laid tar.
But of course, the biggest thrill as we drove closer to Amboseli, was spotting wildlife. I mean real African wildlife… right out the car window. We’re talking Impalas, giraffes, ostriches and my favourite of all, warthogs. So exciting!
Oh, and yes, there is that old elusive Mt Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest peak at 5,895 m. I say elusive because it spends a lot of its time hiding behind clouds. In fact, it was easier to spot a warthog foraging on its knees than that massive landmark. Very hit and miss.
Welcome to Amboseli National Park….